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A car-free break in Wadebridge, Cornwall
While Padstow and Rock heave with cars, a three-generation stay further up the River Camel manages to keep everyone happy
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Arocky island emerges from thick mist. Around it, cormorants are diving into grey-green waves, which are flowering with multicoloured jellyfish. The boat pitches wildly; the skipper warns us that tope, powerful sharks, are common in these waters and not to lose our rods. He throws most of our too-small early catches overboard, including a sunrise-pink gurnard.
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